CONSTRUCTION & FINISHES
I use age-old joinery methods which have proven themselves over centuries. Mortise-and-tenon, dovetail, and tongue-and-groove joints are common in my pieces. All of my drawers have dovetail joints. I will use nails or screws as appropriate. I don't use staples.
The glue I use most is Titebond II, a water-resistant, aliphatic resin which seeps into the pores of the wood and creates a virtually unbreakable bond. Occasionally, if the situation demands, I use an animal hide glue, or a waterproof marine epoxy.
The finish I choose for a particular piece is based on a variety of factors. The use of the piece, type of wood, visual effect, durability, and maintenance are all considered. For kitchen and bathroom cabinets, I usually recommend a satin polyurethane. Although it's more time and labor intensive than the industry standard lacquer, it's far more durable and resistant to water spotting.
For furniture pieces which are not expected to come into contact with moisture, I frequently use a penetrating oil finish, wet-sanded on, followed by paste wax and buffed to a rich sheen.
These are my most common choices, but other options are possible, depending on the desired outcome. Water-based finishes with low toxicity are becoming increasingly popular. Now and then, someone wants a paint-grade cabinet. I seldom use stains unless I am matching existing woodwork, as stains tend to obscure the subtle beauties present in many woods.
The glue I use most is Titebond II, a water-resistant, aliphatic resin which seeps into the pores of the wood and creates a virtually unbreakable bond. Occasionally, if the situation demands, I use an animal hide glue, or a waterproof marine epoxy.
The finish I choose for a particular piece is based on a variety of factors. The use of the piece, type of wood, visual effect, durability, and maintenance are all considered. For kitchen and bathroom cabinets, I usually recommend a satin polyurethane. Although it's more time and labor intensive than the industry standard lacquer, it's far more durable and resistant to water spotting.
For furniture pieces which are not expected to come into contact with moisture, I frequently use a penetrating oil finish, wet-sanded on, followed by paste wax and buffed to a rich sheen.
These are my most common choices, but other options are possible, depending on the desired outcome. Water-based finishes with low toxicity are becoming increasingly popular. Now and then, someone wants a paint-grade cabinet. I seldom use stains unless I am matching existing woodwork, as stains tend to obscure the subtle beauties present in many woods.